Sunday, November 29, 2009

Ahhhhhh..........

I will never travel across eastern Africa on a bus again. This is INSANE. Why did I want to do this? It's been fabulous seeing the landscape, the people, etc but seriously, what an idiot. AND on top of that, you have to pay to use toliets (aka a hole in the ground), bring your own toliet paper AND the girl I am with walks really slow. Don't get me wrong, I like her, but, seriously, pick it up! (probably too many commas there but I don't even care)

Plus, no safari because she doesn't do animals - what? And no hiking because she doesn't do that either - seriously? Note to self, choose your travel companions wisely.

So, I am headed to Uganda in Jan for a safari and rafting...good thing I'm so wealthy...f-er (yes, I said it...what?!!?)

Wednesday, November 25, 2009

Woah.

The electricity is incredibly spotty today/night so I better write while I can.

I am exhausted; mentally and emotionally drained. The workshop ended today and it was amazing. God's work is being done here in Rwanda. I pray that it continues and hope the rest of the world takes the time to acknowledge what is happening here. We have so much to learn from these people.

I felt honored to be in the room when individuals were giving their testimony but I was also very uncomfortable because felt like it was too private for me to be there. I am an outsider who has never experienced this kind of horror so cannot even begin to pretend to know what they are feeling. I sat there in awe, I cried with them, I prayed with them and I had no idea what they were even saying!

There was a lot of group work today so when they broke off into discussion groups, Benjamin, the lead counselor took me aside to translate for me. One woman stood up who was a Hutu married to a Tutsi. Her husband was killed during the genocide and her whole family rejected her - both sides. Her in-laws wanted her killed because she was a Hutu and "responsible" for her husband’s death while her own family rejected her for marrying a Tutsi and being a moderate Hutu. She has been alone and rejected by both families for the last 15 years. She gave her testimony and asked for forgiveness for any role she played in the genocide. One of her husband’s aunts was part of the workshop as well and stood up, gave her a hug and asked for her for forgiveness as well. She told her that going forward they would be together and each other's "best friend." It was very powerful and I hope that they follow-up with their commitment to each other.

Another story was of a Tutsi woman who was married to a Hutu. Her husband was part of the army and I believe is currently in prison. Her children, who are Hutu, were rejected from their community (as babies) because they were "killers." After the genocide, she moved back to Nyamata which was hit hard by the genocide wiping out virtually the entire Tutsi population. At that time she was a teacher and when the school found out her children were Hutu she was fired because they would "not pay her to feed those killers." Overtime, she began to resent her children and began to beat them and refer to them as killers as well. During her testimony, she expressed her desire to reconnect with her children and ask for their forgiveness. She said the workshop showed her that she too was a killer. She has spent the last 15 years killing her children's spirit and minds.

Many others shared their stories as well and testified that they are looking to change and are ready to step forward out of the darkness. These past three days were the first days of healing for a community who has been tortured with anger, guilt and shame for the last 15 years. It would be naive to expect it to be immediate, but who knows, God can work miracles.

I'm off to Tanzania tomorrow until December 5th (I think) so there will be limited blogging but I will try! I hope you all have a fabulous Thanksgiving and I am so blessed to have you all in my life.

I love you a lot.

Monday, November 23, 2009

Be grateful

I was going to start off by staying this will be a short one because I am tired but knowing me, it probably won't be so I'll just jump in...

Went to Nyamata today for the first day of a four day sociotherapy session for the victims and perpetrators of the genocide. The way the workshop is set up is on day one individuals discuss the history, what happened, why it happened, and give people the opportunity to express their personal loss of both tangible (people, houses, cows) and intangible (peace, love, faith in humanity, unity, etc). The following days are geared towards moving forward through forgiveness and reconciliation. The primary goal of the workshop is to start the healing process for these people. If they can not heal, they will never be capable of truly forgiving and without forgiveness, there is no reconciliation. Without reconciliation, Rwanda will continue to struggle as it has for the last 100 years. (As sick as this may sound, I was happy to hear that the tribes (Hutus, Tutsi, and Twa) were confrontational before the Belgium's or white folk got there. They made it worse, but it was not all peace and harmony before. One of the many things I like about the leader of our group is that he is very into ownership - he makes each person take accountability for their role in the genocide and leaves little room for blaming others).

Throughout the workshop, I learned a lot about African culture and the way that African families interact with each other. Apparently, most Africans do not express their emotions to each other, even their children. "I love you" is seldomly said and for the most part, due to numerous actions of the parents, many children grow up without a sense of value. As a result, the speaker quickly mentioned how getting over tangible loss was much simpler than the intangible. I was a bit dumbfounded because, although on some levels it does make sense, I find it very hard to believe it is that easy to get over the loss of a parent or sibling - mine at least are not that easy to replace. After only living here for 11 days, it is obvious that life is not valued has highly here as it is in the US but I was pretty taken back by how nonchalantly the loss of a family member was taken. That being said, it could also be because the workshop is geared towards Rwanda on a whole and Rwanda will not survive unless the people have a sense of love, peace and unity but still...

The whole tribes thing baffles me...ethnic ideology is the root of so much evil. If only people could just look at each other as human beings the world would be such a better place...such a simple concept but so impossible for most to understand. It all goes back to DO YOU... haha.

In addition to the workshop, I went to an orphanage for children with disabilities - rip my heart out much. It was wonderful to be there but really, really hard to leave. It's amazing how well you can communicate with people without using words. There were only a couple kids there because most went home for the holidays but I had one in my arms at all times and the other latched onto my leg. I believe both of the boys were around five and had pretty severe mental disabilities (beautiful smiles though). There was also a blind four year old, a three year old who had been found in the brush a week earlier (I have never seen a skinner child in my life) and a 15 year old who could not speak but was weaving away. I walked away from that experience very grateful for all the gifts I have in my life; having the basics is enough!

Overall it was an eventful and emotional day...off to Tanzania Thursday (I think, still have to check out safety stuff) I'll keep you posted.

I love, love, love you (said like Mr. Darcy from Pride and Prejudice (2005))

Peace.

Sunday, November 22, 2009

Standardized tests....fun times.

Started studying for the GRE today and got my first questions right which is super exciting and all I needed to continue...

I made the big decision that I am going to take it in September 2010 (I think)...going for my MS in Counseling and Mental Health but still feel the pressure to combine it with an MBA so may have to do GMAT too. Who knows?! Every time I have an extended amount of time to pray and meditate, I always come back to counseling and my Home for Hearts concept...ahhhh, I have so much I want to do!!!

Please note that playgrounds in Africa and Home for Hearts are on the list, which means it will get done - maybe not for a ten years but I wrote it down so now I have to do it in my lifetime.

Other than the above, I got my first sunburn today! f-er. I got it walking from church..not bad but totally avoidable. I always miss a spot which you would think at 25 wouldn't happen anymore! Whatevs...aside from that I have a big week ahead of me, lots of meetings and heading to Tanzania Wednesday. I didn't realize that Thanksgiving was this Thursday!! We are having a big dinner here, actually getting a live turkey...doing it the old-fashioned way. I'm bummed that I am going to miss it! I really should have planned better but when I'm away from home the days just become a blur and I have no concept of the date.

Time is passing quickly but talking to Mom and Reilly on skype last night made me sad for the first time in awhile...makes me want to be home. (No one really believes me but if I didn't force myself to do these things I would be quite content sitting on my mom's lap (whatever, don't judge me) for the rest of my life…)

Lots of love

P.S. Cannot wait to see New Moon.

Saturday, November 21, 2009

Chew on that!

The cost of my braces is equivalent to over nine years of income for the average household in Rwanda.

And, that only counts this time...it does not take into account that I've had them twice. Selfish much!

Friday, November 20, 2009

Pete you're going to kill me

Meant to add to my last post that my camera SUCKS...yes, inappropriate to say maybe but there is no better word. I’m so ticked. I'm thinking of buying a new one and having one of the girls bring it back with her but that's still up in the air...this whole money going out, nothing coming in thing is kinda uncomfortable. But, rest assured, I will be back here so this visit may not have great pictures but the next one will. AND, LT will be in them too!

Time's a passing

I'm shocked that it's already Friday; this week went by so fast! I'm feeling good about being here and about the timeframe that I have chosen. I am so excited for all of the opportunities that exist within Rwanda and inspired by the young people here who are doing everything in their power to make their country a better place. Three months is perfect because I believe it will give me the ability to access the needs and come home to use my network to figure out how to implement different projects to fill those needs. My goal is to start some sort of parks and recreation within Rwanda...the kids have NO WHERE to play! There isn't a swing, slide or monkey bars anywhere in this country...no wonder there is so much unrest. If kids don't play together they are only exposed to a very small number of people and usually those that their parents choose and very similar to themselves.

Yes, it's a huge project and I need to make money to support myself and all that jazz but this is possible. I am in the process of putting a document together and hope to figure out some sort of strategy before leaving. At that point, I will come home and pick the brains of the brilliant people I know to get their input on next steps. In order to be successful, it has to be a gov't funded project (I think) but I'm going to work to make the best case that I can. Ideally, I want it to come from the Rwandanese, being here has made me a firm believer that change has to come from within. I am so very pro-America but America needs saving too and all the people looking to change the world are doing just that...looking outside of their own country. The members of PLP are a group of very capable men and women, who, if given the opportunity, will change this country from within. Relying on other nations for all of the funding is a crutch and they understand that. The country and it's people need to feel a sense of ownership.

Other than that, yesterday was busy! We did not have electricity in the morning so I could not write and from 12PM until 1AM I was out. We went to Ingando which is a military school in northern Rwanda near Gisenyi. We showed the two films, As We Forgive and The Long Coat. As you may know, As We Forgive follows the lives of a couple victims and perpetrators on their road to forgiveness and reconciliation. The Long Coat, which is a new film that was produced by a young man here in Rwanda, features his life as a Hutus and the shame associated with the actions of his father and mother. After the films, we had discussion groups and students stand up to ask questions and give their own testimony. Despite being a very closed and private culture, no one has any problem standing up in front of people and telling their story (or singing and dancing).

In terms of landscape, words don't do it justice!!!! We were up near gorilla country and we had to drive down a series of dirt roads to get to the school. After driving through the most beautiful area I have ever seen (and by ever, I mean ever! Yes, more than the backyard in Park City) we opened up to the school which was sitting on a huge lake surrounded by mountains. The thought that "if I were born here, I would never leave" actually crossed my mind (and that's knowing there is little electricity, running water, etc.). The houses were tucked in the trees - which looked like stunted palm trees with huge elephant leafs - surrounded by flowers. It was amazing.

Now, on to Kate, everyone has told me how I will never be the same after this experience. Well people, the change is happening...

1) I only eat one piece of gum at a time and that piece usually lasts an hour or so. Once finished, I rarely go for another piece, I just chill. As a result, it has taken me nine days to finish a pack of gum. Now, you may say to yourself..."she is only doing that because she does not have enough to last"...wrong! I have six packs and my good friend Alexis will let you know that the "normal" Kate would be done with all six about 5 days ago...if she was going to run out or not.

2) I actually only use a dime sized portion of shampoo and conditioner now and it actually works!!! Who would have known that our parents weren't kidding and being cheap...that really is all you need. I have just saved myself a considerable amount of money!

3) I LOVE not having a TV!!! I honestly don't even miss it! Naturally I get tired at 9:30 so I'm usually in bed by 10 and always up by 7 at the latest...usually 6:30. I'm a big fan of the morning.

I'm sure there are more but that's all I got right now...

Feeling good - had my first hot shower today since being here and know that my heart needed this journey. Also, going to Tanzania next week with a girl I met from London and a couple of her American friends....free room and board!! o yeah! Can't wait :)

Lastly, as many of you have warned, I am still very alert and aware of my surroundings. The embassy is a nice run away and I know that I am still in Africa. I will continue to watch my back but am so grateful that I was not scared out of this experience.

Wednesday, November 18, 2009

Water or electricity anyone?

Six days of constant electric outages (for hrs at a time) and two days without water is interesting....

Just thought I'd share. Don't be fooled, I still like it here.

Oh, and mark my words, the Peace and Lover Proclaimers will be on Oprah someday. Believe it!

Tuesday, November 17, 2009

"Kate, you are African."

Yes, you heard that right. It only took one full day together for a Rwandanese to say that I am African...not once, but twice.

So, yesterday...

Benjamin, my colleague and now friend, went to a village two hours north of Kigali in the district of Nyabihu. We went there to do a pastors workshop focusing on forgiveness and reconciliation for the victims and perpetrators of the genocide. Before the genocide, this village was a prominent community in Rwanda. Although it's difficult to understand completely due to the translation from Kinyarwanda to English, I was given the impression that the former President, Juvenal Habyarimana, who was killed in the plane crash that started the killing spree in 1994 had lived there. This village, like many of the surrounding villages, was nearly wiped out immediately. Since it is close to the Congo, where some of the perpetrators fled, many of the villagers still live in fear that the extremist will return. In addition to that fear, they have to live side-by-side with the individuals who killed their family members and friends.

When we arrived to the town we were greeted by a woman named Cecine who was probably in her late 30's. She was beautiful. Her bone structure was so strong and she had bright brown eyes. She greeted me in true Rwandanese fashion...two arms on the shoulders (like a hug) and touch cheeks three times - right, left, right. I also met a group of pastors and everyone was very welcoming. Benjamin had told them that I was practicing my Kinyarwanda, which they all thought was very funny for some reason, and Cecine stole my cheat sheet and practiced pronunciation with me. The kids came in flocks. I was the only "umuzungu" in the village and since I had "rings on my teeth" they had to get a look. As soon as we started to walk anywhere they would follow us, like 20 at a time, and wanted me to take their picture. It was causing a bit of a scene so I only took a couple when there were fewer kids. I took a photo of a group of them and in that group was a tiny girl who was probably only 3 or 4 yrs old. We went to lunch (which is a whole other story...rice, meat, spaghetti, greens, beans, potatoes..all on one plate, weighed like 5 lbs and I offended them by only eating an actual serving but I would have been sick otherwise...I was the only person in a group of 30 who did not basically lick the plate clean)...but, back to the little girl...after lunch when we were walking back to the church, the little girl ran up to me and hugged both of my legs! Her head was probably just at my knees and she was squeezing my legs...it was the nicest thing - really made me happy!

When we got back from lunch we did the discussion part of the program where the attendees give their own testimonies and ask questions. One man's story in particular really caught my attention - again, it's translated so who knows - he was saying how he is trying to forgive so that he can move on and he is not opposed to reconciliation but how was he to do that when they, the extremist who fled to the Congo, were still trying to hunt down his family and him. It's crazy to me. It's crazy to think that is a real fear of a real human being, not an actor/actress. Every day that is on his mind. Every day he is wondering if / when they will find him. It baffles me. Even more, they only want him dead because of the tribe he was born into, because he is tall, has different bone structure, and his ancestors, who he has no real connection with may or may not have at one time or the other killed one of theirs...ahhhh, shocking.

In terms of the landscape, it was a gorgeous drive. The altitude was so high that my ears actually popped. It looked like UT - it was beautiful. Women were walking around with babies on their backs and baskets or bananas on their heads, while the men had bunches of pipes or boxes on theirs. There were no cars on the road, only the buses and an occasional truck, and people were just going along with their daily tasks. There were children everywhere running around or sitting in groups on the side of the road. A majority of their clothing was still western but the colors they wore together is not something you will see in the western world. They wear pinks, purples, neons, all together, men and women. The women only wore dresses or long skirts that were usually bright with intricate patterns. The land was so green and the farming plots were all divided and cut into the mountains...I forget the correct terminology but it was like steps.

It was a great day. I'm sure I didn't do it justice but I tried. I really wish you could all experience this. The way these people live their day-to-day lives is humbling. I'm starting to question why people in the west feel the need to help them by introducing technology. It doesn't look like they are asking for help to me, but then again, I'm only beginning to learn the language and I wouldn't know if they told me.

Words/phrases for the next 2 days
Mwaramutse (mar-a-mut-cee) - Good Morning
Mwiriwe (mer-na-way) - Good afternoon
Bite byanyu? (be-tee bee-yan-yo) - How's it going?
Nibyiza, murakoze, nave se? (not sure exactly) - Fine, thanks and you?
Murakoze (mir-a-ku-ze) - Thank you
Nitwa (nee-twa) - My name is...

Love you.

A gift

Today Africa was everything that I had hoped it would be. I had a truly amazing day and will never be able to fully articulate exactly what I saw, heard and felt. I'll try tomorrow but I'm exhausted so off to bed!

Lots a love!

Monday, November 16, 2009

Boom Boom Pow

My iPod is dead, my itunes never fully loaded, and my IP is recognized as Rwandanese which unfortunately does not have access to the Apple store. As a result, there will be no solo dance parties to Boom Boom Pow or Fire Burning on the Dance Floor in Africa...very bad news.

In other and more important news, I had a good day and a fabulous evening. We had a meeting with the guys from PLP (Peace and Love Proclaimers) which is a non-profit in Rwanda run by a group of young people who are working to promote a better Rwanda through empowering the youth. They are such an great group of guys and it's so inspiring to see what they have been able to accomplish while holding down full time jobs. They are full of hope and it made my night. I really look forward to working with them. (Each of them speak at least 4 languages...wtf, one negative about the good ol' US of A)

Other than that, the cook is mad at me. I apparently don't eat enough...yes, me. I'm trying to only eat when I am hungry and that is not ok with her. I'm sticking to my plan but she gets so offended and actually talked to one of the other girls in the house about it. Basically, I just want to say, DO YOU...but, I don't think that's appropriate. We're friends (as close as people that have known eachother for 4 days can be) so I feel comfortable trying to explain it but the language barrier is too much. PLUS, the girls were talking about how on average ex-pats gain between 30-40lb while in Africa due to rice belly (and beer)…if that is the case, count on seeing me sometime around Feb. 2012 because I will be walking/swimming home.

Peace and love to all...(insert peace sign and sway here)

Sunday, November 15, 2009

I love America

Another day full of deep thought and reflection...

The more I learn about Rwanda's economy the more I am fascinated with the importance of maintaining ours. Yes, we are going through our own crisis but we are currently fundamentally far better off than most. In Rwanda there is no middle class. From my limited understanding, the taxes on businesses are so high that it is nearly impossible for an entrepreneur to start his/her own business here and succeed which only makes the rich richer and the poor poorer. I am pro-rich, if it is a result of hard work, and think it is wrong to force rich people to have to support the poor. But, in this case, the lack of opportunity for an individual to better his or her own situation and that of their families, regardless of how hard they try is discouraging. Basically, the government is a dream crusher. (I'm sure it's much more complicated than that but that's all I got!)

It's only day three and the state of this country makes we want to be more involved in ours. We've got a good thing going and need to protect it. Maybe I'll run for President...Vote Kate Kelley 2032 (just kidding, that is not making the list)

Other than all that political bs, found a great church, met some cool people, and had indian food.



HUGS.

Saturday, November 14, 2009

Rwanda vs. Zambia 0-0...riveting

Today was a good day...started out a bit rough but took a turn for the better which is always nice.

My five roommates and I went to the Rwanda vs. Zambia football game. It was an intense match-up that resulted in a final score of 0-0.

My observations were as follows:

1. The players don't keep their heads down when they shoot and are incredibly dramatic.
2. Out of 5,000+ spectators, my roommates and I made up six of the approximately 15 women there.
3. Over 75% of the spectators were wearing US hand-me-downs for clothing (one being a Boston shirt).
4. People like to push at sporting events in every country.
5. No one could leave the stadium until el Presidente left.

Overall, it was a great experience. There was dancing, drums and trees...yes, they bring tree branches with leaves on them to create an additional sound that adds to the drum beat.

Speaking of trees...

We had the tree in front of our house cut down this morning and the man's wife showed up half-way through with their two sons to collect the leaves. They were starving and we suspected they were going to turn those leaves into some kind of food or craft. All of their clothes were old and torn and one of their sons didn't even have shoes. We offered them crackers and the whole family took a bunch. There oldest son, who was probably five, was very bright. He was repeating what we said and had the ability to carry on a short conversation in english before he left. It's amazing to think that chances are this five year old will never have the opportunity to truly develop and go to college or even high school.

I know, depressing note to finish with so I will add that I was doing my fair share of staring today (apparently it's appropriate here) and I decided that African's were made to smile...they have such happy faces.

Sending lots of love from Africa.

Friday, November 13, 2009

Day One (awake)

Mwiriwe, (Good afternoon)

My first full day awake (minus an hour nap) has been ok...not terrible, not great and I don't want to say bad so I am saying ok. I know it is always very difficult in the beginning so I can't say I expected this experience to be any different...plus I only have about 78 days left anyway (yes, I've already counted) so it will fly by.

To state the obvious, Africa is hot - not scorching hot (yet) since Rwanda is in the middle of rain season but hot nonetheless. It is surprisingly green here due to the immense amounts of nightly rain we receive (on our metal roof) and it is very hilly, hence it's nickname "Land of a Thousand Hills" which makes a casual walk somewhat of a workout (which I obviously love). When the sun is out in full blast around noon, just walking around makes you perspire (as Nana said, "Ladies don't sweat, they perspire."). Around 4 o'clock it starts to cool down to a comfortable temperature and then it is pitch black by 6:15 (I am and will be indoors by then, which is depressing because I love walking around at night but my whole "hoodie on and attempt walk like a dude thing" that I did in Europe isn't worth trying here).

The disparity between the rich and the poor is shocking. There are big houses here, even by US standards, and then there are shacks four lots away. To think the average person lives on $1.25 USD a day makes you wonder what the "poor" people are actually living on.

The biggest and most difficult adjustment for me will be that I am whiter than white. EVERYONE here stares you down and then calls you "Umuzungu" which is white person in Kinyarwanda. Being the obvious minority for the first time in my life* is kind of uncomfortable to be honest. As one of the two white people at the market today, I had a sense of fear that I have never experienced, both of myself and of my surroundings. I was fearful because I could not recognize if I was afraid because I was alone in Africa or afraid because I was alone with all black people. Due to my experience as a member of the "playa suite" and my relationships I have with some of my closest friends, I would like to believe it was the latter, but the thought was still very present in my mind.

Well, I probably wrote too much but it's a blog so you don't have to read it all! I miss you all and feel your prayers. They are greatly appreciated...keep em' coming!

O, forgot to say, roomies are nice (5 total, 3 from NYC, one that went to my church! small world) and I have two new potential friends that I met today when I was walking around. We are going to play bball and practice English / Kinyarwanda. Yes, Mom, they are Pygmies.

Ijoro rwiza, nda gukunda (Have a good night, I love you)

Kate


*Redheads are the number one minority in the world :)

Saturday, November 7, 2009

Almost Time

Blog has officially started...

It's Saturday morning, I leave Tuesday night...woah. I'm surprisingly not freaking out like I originally suspected so I guess that's a good sign. I don't expect the ulcers to come until I get on the plane Tuesday...

I'm so lucky to have so many people to miss.