I LIKE IT COLD.
O my goodness, Tanzania was soooo hot!!! Like, stand still and sweat hot. The sun was beating on me all day, every day. On the beautiful beaches of southern Zanzibar, I was in the pool and ocean lathered in my spf 45 (didn't have my spf 85) for less than 25 minutes before diving for cover under an umbrella and I immediately turned into a freckle freak and burnt the heck out of every area I missed! It was unbelievable. Granted we were at the equator and this skin was made for the rolling green hills of cloudy, rainy Ireland but come on, what happened to evolution?! I've been gone for generations...
The trip overall gets a 5 out of 10...I was gone for seven days and spent 4 1/2 on a bus, was followed by locals begging for money or for me to buy over-priced crap non-stop, was constantly forced to barter for everything (taxi fares, tickets, etc) because everyone tried to rip me off, was suffocated in a cloud of cigarette smoke for the last two days and had to pay for a plane ticket home due to the fact that I decided I already wasted too much of God's time over the last week praying to safely arrive at my next location that it was just becoming selfish.
So, I will focus on the more negative parts first so we can end on a positive note.
Bus Ride: Insane. Most of the time we were on dirt roads getting slammed all over the seats. The "buses" ranged from 1970's vans to regular charter buses...none of which had bathrooms and all sounded like they could break down at any minute.
Begging: Leave me alone. The begging is non-stop! It's annoying and most won't quit. They follow you and it's just ugh. I have a new strategy with the beggars that are kids. Now when they come up to me I tell them if they can give me five good reasons why I should give them the money I will. It stops them in their tracks and they just smile and want to know everything about you.
Bartering: In the "real world" tickets and taxi fares have a fixed price. Not in Africa...at least not if you're white. EVERYONE and I mean everyone tried to rip us off. It was outrageous and so frustrating. I was even to the point of telling people to go screw and although this comment might cause a debate, which I welcome, Africa is by far the most racist continent I have ever been on. It's unfortunate but people try to take advantage of you at every turn and it's just corrupt. For instance, we went into a ferry company office to buy a ticket from Dar Es Salaam to Zanzibar. It was a legit establishment and we knew going in that the tickets cost $35USD. We walked in, asked for two tickets and the guy said $50USD a piece. We said we knew they only cost $35USD and he smiled and said no, $50USD. We said no thanks and walked out. As we were leaving, he said fine $35USD. We left and bought them from someone else for the right price. It's so frustrating because that man does not understand the effect that his actions have on his company...he is losing business. What if we had just moved there and needed tickets weekly, or if we had a massive group with us, or if we were writers for some tour guide book...it's just bad business. Another example is with the taxi drivers - nuts. One guy actually told us it cost $50k shillings to go less than three miles (it should cost approx $7-10k). I was really fed up at this point because it was after four days of people constantly trying to take advantage of us so I looked at him and told him I am a good person and although he is not acting like it right now, I'm sure he is too so why is he trying to rip me off? He started laughing and grabbed my hand and wanted to know my name and where I was from and then asked me how much I wanted to pay to get there and he'd take me. It was actually a nice interaction but it's so easy to see why people just write-off Africa....so many of the people you interact with just push you to your limits.
Smoke: I have never been around a group of people who smoked so much in my life. Of the eight people I was with for my two days in Zanzibar, five of them smoked at least two packs a day. It was constant and I hate cigarette smoke...hate it.
Plane Ride: Ok, this one is not to be repeated to Pat. If she finds out, it will have to be through reading the blog so, in some ways, this is a test. I decided to take a plane back because the bus ride to Dar Es Salaam was so crazy and I was legit afraid for my life. One incident in particular sealed the deal. When we walked crossed the Rwandan border into Tanzania we had to switch buses and pick up two armed guards. I thought nothing of it because I just figured they had to get somewhere as well. Guess what...I was wrong! About an hour north of the border we passed a van with a bullet hole through the driver’s side window. Unbeknownst to me, bandits flood the area before Christmas and highjack and rob the cars and buses passing through. Luckily the bandits missed the drivers head so were unsuccessful in their attempt but it was scary nonetheless. Anyway, about 20 minutes after passing the van with the bullet hole we were stopped by a group of about 10 decent sized men with machine guns...eight of which were dressed in civilian clothing. At this time, all I was thinking was "Super, look what I got myself into." and "Way to be selfish and get killed on Thanksgiving." (I was also drowning myself in prayer but was mainly thinking, "Super, how am I going to get out of this one?"). Well, turns out they were all cops hunting for the bandits but still...woah. Needless to say, I decided then and there that if I didn't buy a plane ticket back I was basically putting a price tag on my life and I would be so ticked off if on the way home we got highjacked...that is one experience I do not need to have. All that being said, I also feel the need to point out that nowhere on the embassy website did it say that there were bandits in Tanzania...I did look before leaving.
So, positives...saw most of eastern Africa; including, Mt. Kilimanjaro, the tribes people and their villages; met some really nice, helpful people; and, swam in the Indian ocean (that was about 80 degrees, no lie, hottest water I have been in since being in Africa, showers included)...there are probably more but I am tired :) If I think of them I will write it tomorrow.
Lastly, you may think I am nuts but this fascinated me so I have to share... We stayed at my traveling companion's friend’s house in Zanzibar. It was freaking hot and there were no fans / air conditioning so as soon as we woke up in the morning, we would bring our blankets outside and lie on the porch because it was cooler outside. Well, lying there I noticed the line of ants that were walking across the porch and up the wall. The ants were going in two directions passing each other...I swear some of the ants acknowledged one another. I was watching them and some of the ants stopped and touched heads then moved along. They were not walking into each other and they were not greeting every ant. Moral of the story - ants have friends. (No, I don't do drugs).
Lastly (for real), my biggest take-a-way from this trip is that Rwanda was the right country in Africa for me at this time. The landscape, temperature and the people fit me better than Tanzania and Kenya...(although I'm sure there are great people there too). One thing that I should say after bashing the African's for being corrupt is that on my way back from the airport I was preparing myself for my pending fight with the moto driver for a fair fare. I decided on a price that I was willing to pay and as I waved down the moto was preparing my speech. I asked the moto driver how much and for the first time in Africa, he quoted me a fair price - the actual real cost of the ride. I was shocked. When I got home, I gave him the money and he gave me the correct change! I tipped him which confused him because people don't tip here and thanked him for his honesty...it was exactly what I needed!!!
That's all. Lots of reading! Although a majority is negative, each experience was worth it (minus the bandits, no point in that one).
I love you and am so grateful to be back in Rwanda safe (but on guard)!
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